Fragrance and aroma of lemon blossom, lavender and panela. Notes of black tea and lemon with a floral and candied-lemon aftertaste and brown sugar sweetness. Bright citric acidity with a medium body and tea-like mouthfeel.
ROASTING NOTES
Dense coffees can handle a lot of heat application, and that heat helps build the momentum needed to push through the endothermic reactions of the Maillard and caramelization phases. With so much energy required later in the roast, it can be tempting to hit a dense coffee hard from the very start. However, it is also important that there is enough heat penetration through the coffee seed during drying. If heat doesn’t reach the center of the seed, the interior will be underdeveloped, leaving a cup with astringency and a lack of sweetness, even when the roast data looks right. Starting the roast with a minimal heat application allows heat to move evenly through the seed, while quickly increasing heat application after turnaround builds the energy needed heading into Maillard. This approach provides both adequate heat penetration and enough momentum to develop complex volatiles during Maillard, then carry that energy through caramelization for sweetness and body. The key with dense coffees is to think of the beginning of the roast as preparing the seed and the middle of the roast as driving it forward. Strong heat application heading into Maillard can bring out bright, complex acidity and a clear expression of fruit.
The challenge with washed coffees is balancing that acidity with enough sugar development. Extending time spent in caramelization builds sweetness and body, softening sharp acids into rounder fruit notes, while too much time there can mute the acidity that makes washed coffees shine. How you approach caramelization will have a significant impact on your final cup. A short time spent in caramelization will preserve complex acidity and florals, while leading to a thinner, more tea-like body. Stretching out time spent in caramelization will reduce acids, but allow for more sugar and melanoidin (contributes to body) development. Washed coffees also tend to have a more predictable and audible first crack than naturals or alternatively processed coffees, but it’s worth paying attention to how the coffee behaves after it. Some washed coffees will gently reduce their rate of rise on their own and do best with steady, consistent heat, while others will stall out if heat is pulled back too much and need some continued push to make it through development.
In post crack development, a short time (85-100 seconds) will lead to a bright coffee with fresh fruit character and floral notes, with an Agtron color reading of between 90-85. This would commonly be considered a "light roast." Extending the post crack development (100-150 seconds +) will bring out more notes of chocolate, cooked fruits, nuts, and spice, with an Agtron near the 80-70 mark. This would lead to a roast that is commonly considered a "medium roast".
surrounding the Aricha village deliver freshly picked coffee cherries to the nearby Adorsi washing station in the Yirgacheffe district located in the Gedeo zone. Yirgacheffe is often recognized for the extremely high-quality coffees being grown in the rich and fertile district, and this washed coffee is no exception. The Adorsi washing station is owned and operated by the Yonis family.
where it is floated in water to separate lower qualities before depulping. Traditional disc pulpers are used and the coffee is allowed to rest submerged in water inside fermentation tanks for 36 to 48 hours depending on the weather conditions. During the long fermentation process, the mucilage is broken down and ultimately removed through a final washing of the coffee in the canals. After being fully washed, the coffee is dried on raised beds for 10-12 days.
Faysel and his team at Testi Trading makes significant investments in the communities that they operate in through their Project Direct initiatives. So far they have completed construction of multiple primary schools and even the first ever high school in the town of Hamasho, a small town in Sidama.
We have had the pleasure of buying coffees from Faysel Yonis and his team since 2015 and their coffee never disappoints!